Chicago native Daniel Rose to open “Spring” restaurant in Paris
This is from the New York Times, where you can see the article in full. Excerpts are below. Looks like it will be a great place to eat!
Eurofile | Springtime in Paris
FOOD, TRAVEL | By ALEXANDER LOBRANO | JUNE 10, 2010, 11:11 AM
“….When Rose arrives, he’s polite, friendly and almost quivering with the alert, intense nervous energy of a rabbit. While we walk down the street for a double espresso from his Spring food-and-wine boutique in the rue de l’Arbre Sec, he mentions that it’s his 33rd birthday and that he and his French girlfriend and co-chef, Marie-Aude Mery, will be celebrating that night at Le Relais de l’Entrecote, one of his favorite restaurants. Then, coffees in hand, we tour his restaurant……
..Understandably excited, he reels off facts and figures: this new triplex space is 211 square meters, or almost 10 times the size of the shop-front in the ninth arrondissement, where he rocketed to fame with rave reviews for his market-menu cooking in 2006; it was designed by the Argentine architect Paola Chauvigny, who designed the original Spring; the main restaurant floor space adjacent to the open kitchen will accommodate only 22 covers eating a single tasting menu at an estimated price of around 70 euros (about $84), with another dozen or so bar-stool seats available in a basement eatery; and the cooking style of a contemporary French menu that will change daily will be “hyperrealistic.”
When I tell him that “hyperrealistic” sounds like a movie, he laughs and explains that he wants “to coax the best out of our ingredients, to frame the natural flavors of produce so vividly people will think they’ve never eaten veal or chicken or whatever it is before.” Down another flight of stairs, and we’re in the second basement of this 17th-century house. Rose shows off the surprise of the renovation: the two stone cellars, almost 1,000 square feet of bonus space, once used to store charcuterie in the days when this warren of streets was adjacent to Les Halles. Rose has turned them into wine storage and has spent a lot of time choosing the bottles that will best accompany his cooking. “I like gray wines, light wines like Irancy or pinot noirs from Alsace,” he says.
A staff of 12 will deliver what Rose describes as “a customized experience.” He adds: “I want my servers to do a diagnosis of every table they serve — who are these people, why are they here, what can we do to make them happy? A young couple in love will want a different experience than two businessmen or a family taking grandmother out for a nice meal.”………’
….We repair to the nearby La Garde Robe wine bar, one of the addresses that is making this micro quartier Paris’s new gourmet mecca — the chef Adeline Grattard’s one-star Yam’Tcha is just a street over, and the very good new La Regalade Saint Honoré is around the corner — and order glasses of white Beaujolais. Rose relaxes a bit. “I don’t want to feed the fairy-tale mythology of having a restaurant in Paris, but the reality is that it’s an even better experience than anyone can possibly imagine,” says Rose, who came to Paris to study art history, got seduced by its food and cooked his way through the kitchens of Paul Bocuse and Yannick Alleno (Le Meurice) before going out on his own. “I’ve spent a lot of money, but whatever happens, the whole experience of creating this restaurant was worth it. You see what I really want to do is start a conversation. I think it’s time for Paris restaurants to be reset for the 21st century.”
Spring, 6 rue Bailleul, 75001, Paris. +33 1-45-96-05-72. springparis.blogspot.com